I go for a run early
in the morning – up at 6, it is still dark , and I slowly get ready to go –
it’s chilly here in the mornings, so it takes a huge effort to maintain the
momentum of going out the door and not back to bed.
I have a running band where I can put my key and a little
note that says, “If you find me, please return me to Istituto Michelangelo”. I
feel like Paddington Bear, but, hey, should something happen, someone should
know where I belong. I try to open my bolted door as quietly as I can, but
these giant locks just aren’t made to be quiet. Same thing for the bolt at the
end of the hallway. Then I go all the way down and onto the almost deserted street.
I run up to the Duomo – it is huge
and empty around it then I turn left. There are a few white delivery trucks
buzzing about and a few people getting their market carts from wherever they
keep them at night.
There is a crew of
fluorescent orange pant wearing people sweeping the sidewalk debris into the
streets ahead of the streetsweepers who spray, brush and suck up all the
garbage. The orange pant people then congregate at the bars (caffes) catching
up from the day before over their first coffees, waiting for the streetsweepers
to catch up. Then I make a right turn
and through the empty Piazza della Republicca and past the Ferragamo, Cavalli,
Dolce and Gabana, Gucci and the other fancy store windows and finally end up on
the Arno. I run west, across two more bridges and then turn around. The river
is like glass, the sky is just starting to lighten up behind the city and the
Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, Piazzale Michelangelo are all lit up. The sky is so clear
I can even see the reflection of the stars in it. Back along the Arno, crossing
a shuttered Ponte Vecchio, passing the Ufizzi, dodging the street cleaners,
sometimes they turn off their sprayers as I cling to the sidewalk, other times
I have to jump over the water. Another left onto Via Giuseppe Verdi, passing in
front of Piazza Santa Croce and then just before I turn onto my street, the
flower shop is setting up and arranging the flowers in buckets outside his
store and I get to run through the scent. After a few days, we "Ciao!" each other.
Back to my palazzo and I get to wake everyone up again with the clanking of the 4 deadbolts.
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